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Chinese New Year


This post will be of interest more to our friends and family, many of whom have asked for more pictures of the kids, but I’ll try to cast this with a blog-gier angle. ;-)

My Wife’s Elder Sister’s Son (i.e. the Nephew) is a blaze of energy; we get worn out sometimes just watching him, or even hearing him chattering away in the next room.

I was therefore a little concerned when I saw him grab my Wife’s Younger Brother’s camera one day, but since his Uncle didn’t seem to concerned, I decided to let it slide too.

Later, I was looking at the pictures he took and found nice portraits of light switches, a pair of shoes and other “useless” subjects (including a 50-photo series of the TV when his favorite cartoon was on; looked like a reverse-engineered crude storyboard).

Yawn.

But then I found the next “series” he took: numerous photos of his cousins: my Wife’s Younger Sister’s 5-year-old daughter, and my 4- and 2-year-old daughters, and I knew the boy was on to something.

There are some wonderful playful expressions there that we parents–and even some hired photographers back in Seattle-have never captured, and so I’m posting some of my favorites here–and I thought you should know that the photographer is a 7-year-old “big cousin” here in Anhai.

My 5-Year-Old Niece:


My 4-Year-Old Daughter:



My 2-Year-Old Daughter:



I don’t know if it’s the same all over China, but part of the New Year tradition here–and remember, in China, it’s a 15 day festival–is to visit and be visited with great abandon. Over the past few days, I’ve been measuring time in terms of breaks between visitors. Relatives, friends, friends of relatives, relatives of friends, they’ve all been stopping by, more so this year than normal, I reckon, since we’re here for a visit and everyone wants to see our daughters.

When people come to visit, they come into the main sitting room, and after some beseeching and protesting over who will sit in the most comfortable seats (“Please sit here.” “Oh no, you go ahead.” “No, really, it’s for you, I was already sitting comfortably on this tiny stool that’s missing a leg.” “Oh, if you insist, but I really don’t need the comfy chair.”), someone starts to make tea and someone else pulls out the bags and jars of snacks, and the visit begins.

The topics are various; some plain small talk; some seemingly serious exchanges, but as much as I can, I’ve been finding out what people “do,” as this provides the clearest snapshot of what’s going on in China these days.

A few sample visits:

A fellow who made his first fortune selling construction equipment then became the exclusive agent for the Province for a certain brand of motorcycle, one that has now partnered with Honda to create lawnmowers dropped in. The Family knows his Sister better, but he heard we were in town and came by to see if we had any insights into how to get his sons into American Universities. He brought me a tea set branded with his motorcycle company’s logo. Apart from being a multi-millionaire even in U.S. dollars, his house–genuinely a small palace, as I understand it–has Anhai’s only functioning elevator, going from his downstairs up to all four or five floors of his house.

One of my Wife’s Younger Brother’s Classmates, a gal, works in the Provincial tax bureau office (as a co-worker of one of my former students, it turns out). I asked her how the tax system works in China, and it sounds fairly similar to the system in the U.S.: real property is taxed; sales on good are taxed (though when you buy something in China, the store owner is responsible for factoring the tax into the price they charge; there’s no additional sales tax added when you “check out”; and income is taxed, although starting January 1st of this year, the minimum monthly income subject to tax rose from 800 RMB to 1600 RMB. If you make less than 1600 RMB a month, you pay no income tax.

My Wife’s childhood friend who visited previously returned with her husband and their 7-year-old son. They were married a couple weeks before our ceremony in 1997 and therefore–because it’s the local custom–could not attend our wedding & banquet. It’s considered bad luck to attend someone else’s wedding a month before or after your own. She’s now an elementary school math teacher; he designs “control panels for children’s toys” (motorized cars, I think), which are then manufactured in Taiwan.

A trio of female relatives on my Mother-In-Law’s side of the family dropped by. One of them makes her living by traveling to Guangdong Province and bringing back large loads of stone tile that’s considered to be better than most produced here and selling it to the richer locals who are building their dream mansions.

A neighbor whose small family produces children’s school supplies came and invited us to visit their factory again (we went first in 1997). Last time, they were producing solely for the Chinese market. Now, however, they have contracts with a number of foreign buyers, and have even launched their own in-house export division.

My Father-In-Law’s two sisters visited with the daughter and granddaughter of one of them. My Wife got the hint from her Mother that she wanted us to leave the room for awhile. We figured out later that it’s because she wanted to break the news that my Wife’s Elder Sister divorced recently. This still isn’t easy kind of news to break in towns like this, where “face” is to preserved at nearly all cost.

A fellow who was a co-worker of my In-Laws in the same government-run food distribution work unit came by. He’s a bit younger than them, not of the same generation, which makes his visit an even more polite gesture, and for some reason makes me think he’s one of the truest, most honest souls I’ve met in China.

Another of my Wife’s Younger Brother’s former classmates dropped by. He’s gone into business as an agent for a company that sells clothing, primarily name-brand suits and shoes. They’re mostly Chinese brands, but some of these are apparently starting to gain some equity in the market. During this Spring Festival season, he has so far done over $80,000 U.S. dollars’ worth of business in his little storefront in nearby Qingyang. And yes, I double checked to make sure. That’s over $80K in U.S. dollars’ worth of business in less than a month.

This is clear: If you have something to sell that’s in demand with the locals here in the Jinjiang region of Fujian Province, you’re going to make a handsome profit. (Believe me, we’re brainstorming and researching already.) Many of these people have far more disposable income than the typical U.S. middle income family, and many have made their fortunes with small factories that have been _creating_ products destined largely for the U.S. middle income market. “Your Christmas Purchase Dollars at Work,” we might say of many of their homes and cars.

Today we paid a visit to my Mother-In-Law’s Elder Brother–”Big Uncle,” we’ll call him.

Big Uncle and his wife live in a small two-level building on a busy small street. Their living quarters are upstairs; downstairs, with large doors that open to expose the entire room, is essentially his workshop and place of business. Big Uncle is one of Anhai’s last traditional hand-made lantern makers.

People order the lanterns from him for a variety of occasions, but he says his best business these years are for ones ordered as gifts for people who have just built or remodeled their homes. (Since we finished a major home remodel ourselves before starting this trip, we took the liberty of ordering a pair for ourselves.)

Big Uncle truly makes these by hand.

First he buys poles of dry bamboo of various sizes, then splits and cuts the wood into strips of various uniform sizes, and half as thick as a popsicle stick. Next, he buys long rolls of very thin but sturdy wire and cuts them into pieces about two inches long each. He then bends the bamboo strips into shape and ties them together with the wire pieces.

Once the “skeleton” of the lantern is done, including any metal or wooden handles to be attached, he wraps a porous, small fishnet-weave fabric around it. (Unfortunately, I didn’t see how he ties it off or seals it, as he was just building “skeletons” while we were there.) Finally, he paints the covering fabric by hand and adds finishing touches like decorative fringes and hangs them to dry all over his shop. A pair of large lanterns sells for about 90 RMB (around $12 U.S. dollars).

This has been his lifelong trade, but not without its sorrows.

One, he’s sad that his only son (he also has two daughters) chose not to follow him into this craft, as he had followed his father.

Second, he still remembers clearly the interruption to his work brought by the Cultural Revolution.

One day in 1966, he described to us, a group of local Red Guards burst into his shop and began to break and tear and dump all his lanterns, materials and tools, threatening him with dire consequences if he ever started again.

The invasion, and the decade prohibiting his work (too “tied to the traditional past”) left a lasting impression on Big Uncle, whose only real view of politics and social development is based on whatever has been passing in front of his shop’s open doorway lately.

After the Cultural Revolution ended, he waited a couple years before starting to make lanterns after being told he could again, just because he wanted to make sure it wasn’t a trick.

Even now, 30 years later, he’s wary. A T.V. crew was in town a couple years ago making a documentary about Anhai’s local Arts and Crafts styles and asked him to be featured, since his work is considered to be among the best.

He declined, telling them he was too busy to take time for an interview, but he confided to us that he was really more worried about how the story might be used against him if things ever “changed back” and the Red Guards returned. (Ironically, both my Father-In-Law and Mother-In-Law were Red Guards, but from opposing factions. More on that Romeo & Juliet tale in another post.)

The entire time we were there, he continued making a stack of small lantern frames, pausing occasionally to pour us small cups of tea or light another cigarette, just as I imagine he’s done with visitors most every day, 1966-78 not included, since starting to make lanterns half a century ago.

L to R, Big Uncle (offering me a smoke), his Wife, my Wife’s Younger Sister and her Daughter, and my Wife’s Elder Sister’s Son:

Big Uncle at work:

Big Uncle at work:

A stack of small lantern frames:

The paint pots:

Drying lanterns and tools:

Close-up of some finished large lanterns:

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